There is a lot to be said about the never ending trend when it comes to highlighting and shaping the face. When used in a subtle way you can accentuate the your best features and diminishes flaws. In my opinion the extreme features as seen on You Tube look ridiculous and alien, especially when the products used to shape with are not blended well. Visible darker shades around the forehead, the 80s stripes on or below the cheek are a definite “No Go”. Therefore I would recommend using these product in a subtle way to get the look you want.
The Basic Face:
After applying your regular skincare, use your primer prior to applying your foundation. Preferably use a tinted moisturizer or a BB crème as these textures soften your complexion without looking heavy, as you will be layering. Use a small amount of your regular concealer to diminish color differences focusing on the under eye area. Finish it off by setting it slightly with a setting powder.
Shaping and Highlighting the Kim Kardashian way:
To start shaping you will need a matte foundation that is one or two shades darker than your regular skin tone. To highlight you can use a foundation that is slightly lighter. Follow the guidelines like below on the picture so you’ll know where to apply the darker and lighter shade. And now you need to blend, and blend it well, using a synthetic foundation brush or contour brush. Use a crème cheek color on the apple of the cheeks and set everything with her favorite Banana Powder.
After applying your basic flawless face as mentioned above, I prefer to use a mix of powder products instead of only crème products to highlight and shape. A few of my favorite products to shape with are: Living Luminizer by RMS, because of the subtleness and diversity of it. M.A.C. Cosmetics and Bobbi Brown have amazing pigments and a variety of colors. Especially the recently launched brightening bricks (€ 49) is to die for. The matte bronze by Laura Mercier has a lovely sheen, and due to the soft texture building up works wonders. I love to use a highlighter on the high points of the cheekbones, on the bridge of the nose and underneath the high points of the brows.
When it comes to shaping I usually work with a bronzing powder (with a minimum of red) and a contour brush. Aim for the area under the cheeks starting from the ear to your nostril. Please, please, please blend by making little rounds until the harsh lines have faded. Did you know you can actually shape with your blush? First I use a crème blush only on the apples of the cheeks, then I add a powder blush in the same or complementing color. This adds extra definition, and helps the blending process until the cheeks look sunkissed.
Tip: If your skin tone is dark like Alek Wek and you’re having a hard time finding the right color, you could try a dark brown eyeshadow. Again, blend it well.
RMS & Laura Mercier available thru SKINS